On the Apennines between Modena and Bologna is a real celebrity dish: the borlengo. It is prepared by combining flour, water and salt then poured into a large hot pan called "sole" (meaning sun), greased with pork rind. After a few minutes of cooking it’s seasoned with "cunza", which is ground lard with pancetta, garlic, and rosemary. Not exactly the essence of lightness, but the pleasure of eating it is immense.

The world of the borlengo is located at the foot of the hills between Bologna and Modena, with a significant presence also in Modena city and a base in Campogalliano. "We’ve noticed” says Bonacini, “that to make borlenghi each place has its own recipe, so in the guide we haven’t included just the restaurants that follow the Modena Apennine standards as lodged at the Chamber of Commerce more than a year ago".