There are no highways nearby. The railroad stops in Tirano, then you have to take a bus for an hour to get there. At 4,000 feet above sea level in Valtellina, getting to Bormio is a bit more difficult than reaching Cortina or St. Moritz. “What a shame,” the locals say.

But the true mountain enthusiasts, those who can’t wait to reach the wide valley stretching between the Alps in the heart of Stelvio National Park think it’s a stroke of luck. No painted houses with balconies like in the heart of South Tyrol, none of those elaborate cottages announcing the most famous mountain destinations. Here you see simple stone houses, vineyards able to resist the frost, and a town of 4,000 inhabitants.