“Look, you don’t want to go by car. You won’t see all the wonders here. In some places, in the most beautiful places, you can only get there from the sea.”

This was said to me by an elderly man from La Maddalena, now a lifetime ago, when I decided to visit Caprera, the 16 km2 island in the north of Sardinia. And perhaps that alone could be enough to tell the story of this fascinating place.