No white wine from Italy is more recognizable than Pinot Grigio, which is almost synonymous with Italian whites. This is both good and bad — good in that the variety has been a bonanza for Italian wine in general; bad in that mass production has led to a plethora of generic, nondescript Pinot Grigios, which nonetheless have met the demand for a glass of “white wine” in countless restaurants.

One that rises well above the “all-purpose white” category is Castello Banfi’s 2019 “San Angelo” Pinot Grigio Toscana, from Tuscany.