The coast of Favignana looks as though it’s been sculpted by Antony Gormley. It’s cubic and blocky, hard-edged and hacked about. I wonder if I’m staring at the foundations of a Roman city over my evening spritz. But no, these are the scars of volcanic tufa stone mining. The redundant quarries have collapsed into the sea, leaving a chomped-up shore.

A half-hour hydrofoil ride from Trapani, on the west coast of Sicily, the Egadi Islands are where Italians, especially Sicilians, come to holiday. Favignana is the biggest of the three, although still less than six miles from east to west. Levanzo is the smallest and Marettimo the furthest from the mainland.