The first time I visited the Domus Aurea in 2002, I knew I was lucky to see such an extraordinary site from Ancient Rome. I couldn't believe we could go underground and visit this incredibly intact 2000-year old ruin, and see such vivid paintings and well-excavated rooms. I was awed by the details I could see in the ancient artwork, and the octagonal room with oculus in the ceiling that was so clearly a precursor to the Pantheon. 

Well, I was right. It was short-lived. They shut the whole site down to visitors due to too much exposure devastating the ruins. I thought it was closed for good. Since then, there has been a lot of work restoring the Domus Aurea. And now? It's become one of the most spectacular things you can do in Rome!