Sea-to-table dining in the Cinque Terre isn’t as straightforward as its seaside location might suggest – sometimes a fish's sea of origin can be questionable. Sadly, some restauranteurs opt for the easy, most cost-effective option: buying frozen seafood from abroad to pawn off as, say, “octopus from our gulf.” Conversely, there are plenty of establishments that don’t. Yet, for those who do, one can’t help but wonder if their meat and produce are as dubious as the seafood.

Admittedly, Cinque Terre’s seaside is so enchanting that it can eclipse the farms, dairies, vineyards, olive groves, and agriturismi studding the hills that divide the towns. It’s a shame because these establishments add just as much flair to the table as they do to the landscapes. Anchovies, octopus, and gambero rosso di Sanremo (red shrimp from Sanremo) are some of the swimmers that characterize Ligurian cuisine, but the land is just as prolific.