Everything about Milan conjures glitz and glamour, history and style: the intricate Renaissance spires of the Duomo, the soaring glass-and-iron roofs of the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and the luxury fashion boutiques seemingly on every corner. Italy’s second city is a place to see and be seen.

But tonight, for my first dinner in town, I’m briefly unsure where I am, exactly. I’m staying at the Radisson Collection Palazzo Touring Club, a new hotel that has converted the former offices of Italy’s classy answer to the CAA. In this historic building, in the heart of town, I’ve wandered into what’s supposed to be a small bistro. Or is it?