Nature does not stop for a pandemic, and neither do Italian winemakers. Italy was the first European country to be on the radar for the coronavirus in what now seems like light years ago.

The country’s two-month-long lockdown has been lifted, and Italians are getting used to the new normal—from Plexiglas partitions in restaurants to a reconsideration of la socialità—gatherings around the bar for an espresso or outside for an aperitif.