In some ways, you need to put modern day Naples aside. The trash, the chaos, the petty crime, even the mafia – yes, it is a large part of what this Italian city is today. But it really doesn’t do Naples the justice it deserves.

I’ve written previously about this balance between good and bad and what Naples is really like. I would recommend having a read of it at some point. The bad elements… well, they’re all a product of the Naples of today. And the good… well, most of them are from the history of Naples.