The cancellation emails arrived in a wave in late February. Italy’s growing number of COVID-19 cases, increased lockdowns, and travel warnings had rightfully spooked travelers. Over the course of a few days, I watched bookings for food tours and cooking classes with me and my guides and in Rome vanish from our shared Google calendar.

Since moving to Italy in 2003, I’ve given private tours of the Italian capital, first focused on my undergraduate studies in art history and archeology, then transitioning to culinary history, the subject of my M.A. degree. Over the years, I’ve built a small but dedicated staff of guides and administrators.