Normally at this time of year, the Italian seaside beach town of Sperlonga would have been bustling with its first clients of the season. Restaurants would have been fully open and its golden beaches, although still too chilly for Italians, populated by northern Europeans eager for some warmth after a long, dark winter.

Instead, the beach is almost empty. Although Italy is gradually reopening after a two-month lockdown to fight the coronavirus pandemic that has killed at least 29,000 of its people, there's been no word from the government yet on when and how beach establishments can receive visitors.