When I landed in Milan on Monday morning, the airport was quiet. Cafes were open in the arrivals hall, taxi drivers were available and public transit was running. But most of the typical tourist booths selling SIM cards, tours and bus tickets were shuttered. And when I went to the Piazza del Duomo to get my first look at the Duomo di Milan, I found a sparse mixture of locals and tourists in the square.

Italy is in the process of reopening to tourists now. To see what it’s like, I flew from the U.S. to Italy to try out the first COVID-tested flight open to American tourists last Sunday. For this Delta flight, every passenger had to take two COVID-19 tests before departure and one test upon arrival. By undergoing these tests and getting negative results each time, we were all able to enter Italy without any quarantine.