Just when you thought you knew everything there is to know about the current craze for focaccia and all its pizzalike variants, along comes focaccia col formaggio di Recco (focaccia di Recco for short): a bubbly ooze of tart and fruity stracchino cheese barely contained by two supersize rounds of paper-thin dough.

To make focaccia di Recco, you take a simple ball of unleavened dough larded with olive oil, divide it in two, then roll and stretch the doughballs until you can read a newspaper through them (has anyone ever actually tested the translucency of a sheet of dough by reading a newspaper through it? ). Then you line a pan with one of the dough rounds, top it with scoops of cheese, cover and seal it with the second round of dough like an apple pie, drizzle with more olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt, and bake for about 10 minutes.