In Naples, Italy, the past and the present constantly intertwine. Yes, it’s rowdy. Yes, it’s chaotic. It’s also electric and layered with intrigue. Some new discoveries here were last seen in antiquity: a cache of Greek tombs deep under the modern city; a graffitied Roman-era snack bar in nearby Pompeii.

This blend of past and future has always been the beauty of Naples: founded as Neapolis (“new city”) by Greek settlers in around B.C. 600, it’s a place that is constantly retelling its own story. Instead of turning their backs on pizza, young Neapolitans are reimagining it; galleries slip contemporary works amid Renaissance masterpieces; and artists find inspiration for their work from a 2,000-year history.