The high-speed train flies between Rome and Naples in just over an hour, but I prefer to vagabond it between these two cities. I travel to eat, and I’ve learned in my 15 years of living in Rome that the artichokes and pastas you find along the way are, I’d wager, just as delicious as whatever you get on arrival.

So I stretch the trip into a four-day journey in order to sit for three courses at 400-year-old restaurants, and also to wander around the volcanoes and Bourbon palaces that make this part of Italy unique.