Chicco is delighted to see us when we meet him on a crisp morning in the Italian countryside of Emilia-Romagna. He springs up on to his hind legs to plant a slobbery kiss on his owner’s nose, then greets us by wagging his tail gleefully.

We’re in the woodlands surrounding Sant’Agata Feltria, a sleepy, fairytale village that comes alive during weekends in October when 10,000 tourists descend for its truffle festival. This morning, we’re joining Chicco the spaniel and his owner Sauro to track down some truffles