It may seem as if there are no undiscovered stretches of the Italian Riviera. After all, centuries of visitors, from conquering Romans and Grand Touring Brits to rail-pass-toting backpackers and well-heeled cruisers, have explored the region’s splendors. Still, some surprises remain.

Just south of the Cinque Terre lies a dazzling gulf dotted with small beaches, turquoise coves, and pastel villages hugging the glittering Mediterranean Sea. One of the largest villages, Lerici, which I’ve called home for several years, is a place that Italians across the boot recognize instantly. “Che bello!” they exclaim upon hearing where I live.