Less than three centuries ago, Naples was the capital of a kingdom, the center of Europe, and in competition with Paris as the chicest capital on the continent. Before the long period of decline that followed Italy’s unification, visitors—especially the British—headed to Naples for decadent souvenirs such as paintings, porcelain, and mandolins.

Today, with Naples in the throes of a renaissance since Elena Ferrante’s My Brilliant Friend (both the television series and the novels) placed it firmly on the map, the city’s streets are brimming with eager tourists once again. They’re here to see the treasures uncovered from the Greco-Roman period of antiquity and the grand Bourbon architecture of the 18th century, but also to spend time shopping the diverse independent boutiques peppering the ancient streets.