As I drove up the steep northern Italian vineyard hills to meet three sisters of the Tessari family, I had one burning question about their Suavia estate: How do they do it? In Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines of 2022, Suavia was the sole winery from the Veneto, Italy’s largest wine-producing region by volume.

That was Suavia’s third time appearing on the list and the second for its base Soave Classico, the 2020 vintage. The sisters’ impressive 22-year track record includes 37 wines scoring 90 points or higher in Wine Spectator blind tastings, and I wanted to find out their secret. When I arrived in the hamlet of Fittà, where the sisters grew up and now work, I was struck by the secluded stillness of the place, where the population hovers just above 100.