I’m draped over a couple of foam floats, drifting through the steamy outdoor pool of the Terme di Saturnia resort in southern Tuscany. In these same sulphuric thermal waters, Roman soldiers once bathed to recover from the ravages of war. 2,000 years later, the water’s therapeutic benefits are still lauded, though instead of boasting their ability to heal battle-inflicted wounds, the pamphlets talk about myorelaxants and hepatic cell activity.

It’s arresting to think that the Etruscans recognised these waters as sacred in the 8th century BC, while Pope Clement III noted their importance in a papal bill of 1188. Now, the resort, the stunning naturally-formed hot springs just down the road and the cypress-studded hills around have become one of Italy’s most iconic natural wellness destinations.