The grapes most often associated with California’s Sonoma Valley are French—from Cabernet Sauvignon to Chardonnay—despite the fact that many of the region’s winemaking families have Italian roots. But thanks to the efforts of a new generation of producers, Italian varieties like Falanghina, Arneis, Ribolla Gialla and Vermentino are showing up more and more often on the labels of sought-after Sonoma wines. On a recent trip to Sonoma, I met with talented winemakers and growers who are particularly keen on these grapes, among others. Just don’t call their wines Cal-Ital.

A few decades ago some Californians focused on Italian varieties like Sangiovese. But their “Cal-Ital” wines, unlike their Tuscan peers, were often less than appealing, tannic and austere. The term Cal-Ital and the many unsalable wines associated with it quietly faded away.