Deep in the woods it appears like a sudden apparition: a lone wolf on the path ahead of us. It's there just long enough for us to register its presence, then it vanishes. Yes, wolves (and bears) do stalk the rugged interior of Abruzzo, southern Italy, although in the 12 years we've holidayed here we've never seen one before.

Abruzzo is not a regular tourist haunt — there are no leaning towers or grand canals — but to those who love the wild outdoors it's idyllic. We follow a steep path in the region's Gran Sasso National Park, when round a bend we're startled to meet two people. We normally trek all day without seeing another soul.