Every morning, Marino Verì walks onto the trabocco built by his family generations ago and listens to the Adriatic Sea rumbling beneath him. A lot has changed since the stilted wooden structure was built: Marino’s family have gone from fisherfolk to successful restaurateurs.

Even the landscape here, just south of Pescara, has transformed — an earthquake in 1627 destroyed the original coastline. But one thing remains constant: the Adriatic. Further north, Italy’s Adriatic coast is one seemingly endless beach, but here, between Ortona and Vasto, it becomes a 24-mile crescent, where the crumbling cliffs splinter into rocks, the sea foaming around them.