Italy has no shortage of epic regions in which to dine. I’ve been to my fair share, from Piemonte to Rome to Puglia and beyond. It’s impossible to choose a favorite; like children, or pets—or maybe pots and pans—they are all uniquely special and lovable, and I cherish each for its own reasons.

Milan, however, is a city that many had long warned me against bothering with, brushing it off for being not as charming as other parts of Italy, or calling the culture cold, work-obsessed, and cosmopolitan without character. Beyond the occasional mention of their risotto alla Milanese—the city’s signature dish—some osso buco, and panettone, I hadn't heard much about the cuisine, even from friends in the food industry.