
Every Easter Sunday in the town of Sulmona, in the Abruzzo region of Italy, one of the country’s most emotional and unique religious traditions takes place: the "Madonna che Scappa in Piazza" - the Running Madonna. This centuries-old Easter ritual is a dramatic reenactment of the moment when the Virgin Mary learns of the resurrection of her son, Jesus Christ.
The event is organized by the Confraternity of Santa Maria di Loreto, a lay religious brotherhood whose members wear white robes and green capes. Over the years, the ritual has become a powerful symbol of faith, community, and renewal, blending sacred tradition with theatrical spectacle.
The ceremony begins on Easter Sunday just before noon in Sulmona’s central square, Piazza Garibaldi. First, statues of Saint Peter and Saint John are carried in procession toward the church of San Filippo Neri, located on the opposite side of the square. There, behind closed doors, the statue of the Virgin Mary, dressed in mourning black, awaits the news of the Resurrection.
The apostles knock three times. On the third knock, the doors swing open and Mary slowly steps out into the square, still cloaked in grief. As she begins her hesitant walk, she spots the statue of the Risen Christ in the distance. At that moment, everything changes.
Her black cloak is suddenly shed, revealing a bright green mantle underneath. Her veil is replaced with a bouquet of red flowers, and live doves are released into the sky. Then, with great speed, the men carrying the statue begin to run - Mary races across the square toward her son. The crowd erupts in cheers, music, and confetti as the two statues "reunite" at the center of the piazza.
This burst of emotion, symbolizing Mary’s joy and the hope of resurrection, is the climax of the entire Holy Week celebration in Sulmona. Many locals believe that the way the ceremony unfolds has symbolic value. If the cloak falls off smoothly, the year will be a good one. If the doves fly high, the harvest will be plentiful. Even the weather on that day is seen as a kind of omen.
While Easter "encounter" processions take place in other regions of Italy as well, Sulmona’s version is known for its intensity, speed, and theatrical quality. The silence of the crowd before the run, the tension in the air, and the sudden movement of the statue create a wave of emotion that affects everyone present.
In earlier times, church authorities were hesitant to approve the tradition, arguing that it had no clear biblical foundation. Yet the people of Sulmona defended it as an essential part of their spiritual and cultural heritage. Over time, the ritual became widely accepted, and today it is one of the most beloved Easter events in central Italy.
Beyond its religious meaning, the Madonna che Scappa has become a point of pride for the town and a powerful draw for tourists. Thousands come each year to witness it, moved by the dramatic storytelling and the deeply human portrayal of grief turning into hope. The event brings together generations, both locals and visitors, in a shared moment that combines ancient faith with emotional spectacle.
Sulmona, known also for its Roman roots and famous confetti candies, transforms each Easter into a living theater. The Running Madonna is not just a procession; it is a heartfelt expression of the Easter message - renewal, joy, and the promise of life.
Whether you’re a believer or simply a lover of Italian culture, witnessing the Madonna che Scappa is an unforgettable experience, a powerful reminder of how tradition and emotion can come together to tell stories that transcend time.
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