Close

A high-pitched whistle penetrates the cool mountain air as I slowly ascend the slopes on a hiking path that was once part of King Victor Emmanuel II’s network of hunting trails. The whistle, I am told, is a marmot’s warning of intruders. It sounds like Morse code – short dashed whistles for ground alert, one long sustained note for a possible air s...

393

On June 11, 1924, the Gallery of Modern Art at the Pitti Palace in Florence opened, and to celebrate its centennial, the Uffizi Galleries is publishing a virtual exhibition on its official website that tells the story of Gam through a selection of more than fifty masterpieces housed in the rooms on the second floor of the palace. The idea of creati...

348

We are on our way to Portofino early, in an attempt to enjoy the candy-colored village before the inevitable crowds arrive. A relaxing, luxurious girls’ weekend filled with trofie al pesto and pansotti alla salsa di noci, stuffed anchovies, along with sips of barsotto to wash it all down, seems like just the thing to cure the blues brought on by a...

482

Like the Lunigiana, Garfagnana is a historic territory located in northern Tuscany (see the map below). The two have many small castles that are interesting to visit and photograph. These days, the Garfagnana is part of the Province of Lucca. Garfagnana is a mountainous region, with lots of rainfall. The landscape is often dominated by the verdant...

381

From a piazza in the town of Castellabate on the Cilento coast of Italy, you may lift your eyes over the rim of your cappuccino and drink in a panorama of sky and Mediterranean Sea from Salerno to the Gulf of Policastro. Looking way, way down, a fruited plain of vineyards, lemon trees and white fig stretches to the flanks of green mountains decked...

479

A labyrinth adorns the garden of one of the most beautiful palaces in the Castelli Romani: this is the labyrinth of Villa Barberini, located in Castel Gandolfo, among the Alban Hills. Villa Barberini is among the most interesting pontifical villas in Castel Gandolfo, the papal residences that dot Lake Albano and are included in the extraterritorial...

351

I have loved Rome all my life. I went first when I was 10, to stay in a convent. The highlight then was slipping into a cage with two guard dogs, convinced I had a gift for soothing savage beasts. Reader, I survived. The most recent was in April this year, which involved being pickpocketed at the Circo Massimo metro station. Honestly, it was a priv...

299

Nature has its way of derailing travel plans. A landslide in August 2023 in the French Alps blocked the main railway just west of the Mont Cenis tunnel. This route is used by all trains from Italy to Lyon and Paris. The sleek French TGVs and the even sleeker Italian Frecciarossa trains competing on the lucrative link from Milan to the French capita...

357

The seven volcanic islands in the north-east of Sicily have been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since December 2000. The archipelago offers wonders in the form of time travel, adventurous routes, wild beaches, and more alive legends than ever. Here are 7 suggestions, one for each isle, for venturing to the Aeolian islands like a local. The Aeoli...

443

For racing enthusiasts, just mentioning the Autodromo di Pergusa is enough to stir excitement. This racetrack, active from 1962 to 2003, hosted the Grand Prix of the Mediterranean, filling the surrounding mountains with the deafening roar of race car engines. The track, which encircles its namesake lake, saw thrilling competitions where drivers aim...

312