Chickpea farinata is a savory cake made with chickpea flour, water, salt, and extra virgin olive oil. It is a typical dish from Ligurian tradition, introduced in the Middle Ages by the Maritime Republic of Genoa through trade contacts with the Arab world. Over time, it spread to other parts of Italy and the world, including Argentina and Uruguay.

In Liguria, it is called fainâ (or fainâ de çeixi in Genoese), fainà in the dialect of La Spezia, turtellassu in the Savona area, and in Imperia, it is also known as frisciulòta. As a simple, humble food, making farinata is quite easy: chickpea flour is mixed with water, oil, and salt. The mixture is stirred well and left to rest for several hours before being baked.

It is traditionally baked in copper trays, ideally in a wood-fired oven at high temperatures. Only this way does the farinata develop a delicious crispy crust that encases a creamy, delicate interior. Of course, everyone has their own recipe, and no two farinatas are alike, but one thing is certain: this dish is incredibly healthy. Chickpeas are nutritionally balanced, rich in vitamins B and C, and packed with phosphorus.

Legend has it that this ancient dish originated with Ulysses during the siege of Troy. After running out of food supplies, he decided to cook what remained—oil and chickpea flour—inside the large shields of his warriors. It is said that the "Testou," the name still used today to refer to the pan in which farinata is cooked, was the name the Achaean warriors used for their shield.

However, farinata likely has a more recent military origin, and its invention was rather dramatic. After the Battle of Meloria, in August 1284, where the Genoese fleet defeated the Pisan fleet, a storm hit the Serenissimi's galleys. The oil and flour barrels in the holds broke, and many supplies were lost at sea. The next day, the remaining supplies were just enough for the Genoese, while the Pisan prisoners were facing starvation. However, someone noticed that the mixture of flour and oil, left in a corner of the ship and dried by the sun (it was August and very hot), had formed a "crust" that wasn't entirely unpleasant to the taste. While the story of the Pisans in Genoa didn't have a happy ending, it is likely that they are responsible for the creation of this incredible dish.

The story doesn't end there. Farinata became a common dish throughout the Republic of Genoa. In 1507, however, Genoa, envious of Savona’s growing fortune, decided to crush the city and bring it under its control using harsh methods. Andrea Doria ordered the port to be buried and a fortress to be built with cannons pointed at the city. The Savonese, who also loved farinata, faced great difficulties obtaining supplies due to the port's condition, and at some point, chickpeas became unavailable. Someone had the brilliant idea to use wheat flour instead. This ingenious invention became a hallmark of Savona's cuisine: wheat farinata. This is why in all of Liguria, farinata is yellow (made with chickpeas), while in Savona, there is a white version made with wheat flour.

Today, farinata is considered street food and is loved by many, but in the past, it was a humble dish often used to replace bread at the table. Hot and steaming, "a fainà" is one of the gastronomic symbols of Liguria. A poor dish by tradition, chickpea farinata can be defined as the regional "fast food": quick to prepare (cooking in wood-fired ovens takes about seven minutes), it allows an almost complete meal at a low price. The 'sciamadde', a term derived from 'flame', are the small shops with ovens that characterise the historical centre of Genoa. This is where you find the artfully cooked chickpea farinata: thin, fragrant with extra virgin olive oil, greasy just right, soft underneath but with a golden crust on the surface, you can meet people walking down the street while tasting it.