Before it was called the Strait of Messina, the body of water separating Calabria from Sicily was known as the Strait of Scylla. This stretch of sea dividing the island from the “mainland” was named after the monstrous creature from the myth of Scylla and Charybdis, made famous in Homer’s Odyssey.

Scilla is a small fishing town in Calabria, in the province of Reggio Calabria, so close to Sicily that it often feels like you could reach out and touch the island’s tip. Scilla is a fishermen’s village — in the Chianalea district, it’s a cluster of houses and rocks right on the water. From the narrow, stone-paved street, you can glimpse staircases and passages leading down to the sea — little tunnels that house small fishing boats.

Swordfish fishing has been an ancient tradition in these waters. Historical records show that swordfish were caught in the Strait of Messina as far back as the 17th–15th centuries BC. In Chianalea, often called the “Little Venice of the South”, swordfish fishing remains the main activity, usually taking place during the spring and summer. The fishing boats are easy to spot: they’re equipped with tall towers for spotting fish and long gangways where fishermen harpoon swordfish using traditional feluche boats.

In recent years, Scilla’s signature dish has become a street food icon: the Grilled Swordfish Sandwich. The swordfish is simply grilled and sliced into thin, almost translucent pieces for even and quick cooking. It's then placed between two slices of bread — the type depends on the chef — usually with lettuce and tomato, sometimes with olives, and often dressed (or even marinated) in a delicious salmoriglio sauce made from oregano, garlic, salt, olive oil, lemon juice, and white wine. Some variations add mint, parsley, fried fish, citrus zest, capers, or the famous Tropea red onion. The choice of bread is just as important — a rustic loaf with a soft crumb and a crunchy crust is ideal to complement the fish’s flavor. Traditionally, the bread is round and small enough to be eaten easily by hand.

The preparation of the swordfish sandwich, passed down through generations, reflects a culinary art that’s simple yet refined, relying on fresh ingredients and the skill of experienced hands. The sandwich is not just a meal — it’s a sensory experience that transports you to the heart of Scilla’s culture.

Calabria, a land rich in ancient traditions and generous nature, offers a wide variety of high-quality food products. Swordfish, in particular, plays a central role in many local recipes, highlighting its importance in the region’s culinary identity.