Manhattan’s Little Italy isn’t quite as “Italy” as it once was. For a real NYC-Italian neighborhood experience, the only “Little Italy” left is in the Bronx—Arthur Avenue, to be specific. Or, to be even more specific, try the Arthur Avenue Retail Market, sitting in front of a big, square slice of Cafe al Mercato’s Sicilian-style pizza.

Tucked into a corner of the bustling space, the unassuming counter is a crucial part of the Bronx’s oldest sheltered retail market, opened in 1940 by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia (of airport fame) to alleviate congestion from street vendors and encourage higher safety standards in food service.