Just after 9 a.m., Oralia Olguin presses her palms into a football-shaped wad of dough. She leans into it, pressing one half into itself, over and over again.

Gladys Bermudez runs the then-flattened dough through the sheeter, dusting it with flour as she goes. The dough thins and thins, passing through the sheeter multiple times until it's delicately ribboned. Bermudez flours and stacks the layers. She drapes one ribbon of dough over a ravioli mold, puffs snow-white ricotta into each of the wavy-edged squares and lays another ribbon of dough over the whole thing. Bermudez quickly seals the dough layers with the magic of a rolling pin, and perfectly shaped ravioli are born.