Stefano Secchi is a chef renowned for his pastas at New York’s Rezdôra restaurant, a 2021 Michelin Star recipient. When asked which pasta is his favorite to cook, though, he says the question is “too loaded.” Secchi, who grew up in Texas and trained in Italy, mentions multiple favorites and says his mood comes into play.

“When in one mood, I like to cook very al dente pasta from southern Italy — like spaghettoni and bucatini —made with semolina flour and water, extruded and hand rolled,” he says. “During Christmas, I like to cook an unbelievable baked lasagna with fresh pasta sheets and a delicious tortellini in brodo.”