When the Smaldone family opened Gaetano’s seventy years ago, it was an anchor in an Italian-American neighborhood, and the center of enough illicit activity that the owners installed bulletproof glass at the entrance. The Wynkoop Group bought the property in 2005, remodeling the joint before turning it over to Ron Robinson, a longtime member of their team, in late 2013.

Robinson has kept the red sauce flowing, even as other Italian mainstays in the area have dried up. From November 7 through November 11, Gaetano’s will celebrate its seventieth birthday with mob tours, special tappings and a mob-night costume party. But in advance of those festivities, Kevin Savoy, who took over the kitchen a year ago, has rolled out a new menu, the first at Gaetano’s in four years.