Fairsted Kitchen bid farewell to Brookline on New Year’s Eve, but owner Steve Bowman has already replaced his beloved restaurant with a new one: Grassona’s Italian. It’s not that Bowman didn’t still love Fairsted — he loved it very much — but rather he felt it was simply time for a change.

“Some restaurants — like the French Laundry, for example — are able to push boundaries and elevate techniques within the same name,” Bowman told Eater. “But rather than constantly strive to push our boundaries at Fairsted, I wanted to bring freshness and new life into this space every few years.”