I was expecting an easy and relaxing Mediterranean summer. The plan was to spend a few months au pairing somewhere that matched my criteria: sunny, relaxing, by the beach with great food, and the potential to learn a new language. Italy seemed like the perfect place. I managed to connect with a family in Catania, and was ready to trade in a muggy and bustling Washington DC summer for a sweet and calm reprieve on a Mediterranean island.

A summer in Italy–in alluring Sicily no less–sounded dreamy and romantic and straightforward. It was just what I wanted. Soon after arriving, however, I realized Catania, and Sicily in general, for better or for worse, are not those things.