In the restaurant business people tend to fall into two camps: those who love it or those who hate it, observes Anna Frattaroli, co-owner of Lucia Ristorante in Winchester Center. “It’s very hard to be in between,” she says on a recent Monday night, sitting at a table in the dimly lit restaurant, as people trickled in for dinner.

There is no question which camp owners Anna and Filippo belong to. The answer is in the passion when they talk about ingredients, about Italy, and in the sheer fact that Lucia has thrived in Winchester for 35 years. Staying relevant for that long has meant listening to Lucia's clientele, and their culinary cravings, owners explain. So this summer, Anna and Filippo are trying out a new menu on Monday nights.