Buzz, like the irresistible smell of a new car, does not last forever, but a finely tuned, good-looking car can be a joy to those who appreciate the consistent delivery of what it was they loved about it the day they bought it.

Mamo in Soho seems to have achieved that same effect on regulars, who once might have come for the celebrity clientele when it opened three years ago and for its association with the original Mamo in Antibes on the French Riviera, but who now come back for the loveliness of the décor and the consistency of its food, via Chef Salvatore Marcello, who has pretty much maintained the opening menu.