Prato 850's name takes in the temperature of its wood-fired oven, the Italian word for "meadow," and a Tuscan city known for luxury textiles. This buoyant, wood-lined spot, free of tablecloths, is the heir to a branch of Ciao Baby, and has the same owners as the big-portion Italian-American restaurant, which continues in Massapequa  Park. It may not be near a meadow, but freshness abounds.

The partners are Len Oliva, Rich Cammarata and Frank Cammarata, and the chef is Katelyn Hayes, formerly of The Frisky Oyster in Greenport. Prato 850 is part gastropub, part Italian-American eatery, and all in for colorful, flavorful food and the drinks that go with them.