Puglia’s Italian Steakhouse combines Long Island’s two favorite cuisines and seasons them with history. It’s a big taste of Little Italy. This is the offspring of Puglia in Manhattan. The family-owned-and-operated restaurant travels east on a red sea of sauce, and southern Italian and Italian-American favorites.

Some dishes from the Hester Street landmark reach Seaford. The openhanded, welcoming style does, too. Owner Greg Garofalo, who also operates the nearby Lobster Shack just west on Merrick Road, adds juicy steaks to compete with a familiar repertoire of dishes from chicken Parmigiana to linguine with clam sauce.