Remember when Italian restaurants had white tablecloths, crystal chandeliers and tableside carts staffed by waiters who boned fish and flamed sauces? Katerina Ristorante Italiano, which opened in Great Neck a few months ago, offers these touches. It is a pleasant throwback to the 1980s.

Antonio Cerra, the general manager, can usually be found strolling around the dining room, suggesting to customers that they look at the menu as a starting point; the kitchen will make to order any dish the customer desires, if it has the ingredients. Free bruschetta, olives, thin slices of soppressata and chunks of Parmesan cheese are on offer. The bread basket, too, with its two varieties of bread (ciabatta and baguette) and accompanying herb butter and olive oil, is satisfying.

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Source: http://www.nytimes.com/