Torrisi Bar & Restaurant, with its Italian-American ethos and with its odes to Chinatown, Jewish delis and the Jamaican patties served in slice shops, might be the most New York City restaurant that has ever existed. The Mulberry Street spot is clearly a magnificent and jubilant celebration of the city’s rich and diverse food history.

But it’s also about a deep commitment to the future of New York City. “I’m quadrupling down on New York,” says chef/Major Food Group managing partner Rich Torrisi, who opened Torrisi Bar & Restaurant on December 1.