It’s a country the size of Arizona that wasn’t even a country until 1861, and yet the foods of Italy have captured the imagination and palates of the world like few others.

That’s especially true here in the country of Long Island, where no less than a quarter of the population claims Italian heritage, a pizzeria exists around every corner, and almost no aspect of the Boot’s great bounty—from Piedmont to Sicily—is ignored. Here, then, is a celebration of Long Island’s favorite cuisine, and a true buongustaio’s guide to the best of the best.