What makes a perfect Italian sub? Is it the softness of the bread? The ratio of salami to mortadella? The banana peppers? The anticipation you feel when your go-to sub guy hands over the gargantuan sandwich, wrapped in flimsy paper and slightly damp with olive oil?

There are variations on an Italian sub, but in its most basic form it features a long bread roll stuffed with a variety of cold cuts (salami, mortadella, capicola, ham), provolone cheese, a smattering of vegetables, olive oil or dressing, salt, and pepper.