VISITING FRANK Cornelissen 's winery means driving along a dangerously winding road that starts on the shores of the Mediterranean and ends high on the slopes of Mount Etna. Cornelissen, a wiry Belgian-born winemaker, has spent more than a decade in the volcano's northern valley, often sleeping in his cellar, always toiling in his vineyards and forever explaining his methodology with the voluble erudition of a philosophy professor.

But now, as we uncork one of his earliest vintages, Cornelissen is silent. He pours the almost-black liquid from the bottle, with hand-painted calligraphic lettering on its side, sniffing it to make sure it's OK.

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Source: http://www.wsj.com/