Westchester County, New York City’s vast northern suburban country along the Hudson River, is some of the most beautiful in the northeast and, if you use your imagination, you might mistake it for the lake country of northern Italy like Lake Como and Lake Maggiore. So, it seems only sensible that you’d find a villa-like Italian country ristorante that in décor and cooking mimics some of the best in the Old Country.

Its name, Zero Otto Nove (089), however, evokes southern Italy’s region around Naples, whose telephone number prefix it is. The owner, Roberto Paciullo, hails from Sorrento, just south of the sprawling city of Naples, and over many years he’s built a mini-empire of five trattorias and restaurants in Manhattan, the Bronx and Westchester.