You don’t need to tell Tony Gianino that St. Louis brims to the top of the Gateway Arch with pizzerias. He’s a Gianino of the prolific restaurant family: Bill Gianino’s, Billy G’s, Frankie G’s Grill & Bar, Joey B’s. He knew he and business partner and lifelong friend Joey Barczewski (the Joey B of Joey B’s) would need to offer something a little different at Anthony’s Italian Eats.

He and Barczewski, keenly aware of the labor shortage that has struck the restaurant industry in St. Louis and other cities, also wanted to open something smaller. The former Cafe Manhattan storefront on Wydown Boulevard just east of South Hanley Road in Clayton was perfect. Their remodel of the tiny space, which opened in March, seats 10 inside. It also manages to pack in a display case of Italian deli meat and shelves of imported olive oil, pasta and other grocery staples.