I don’t often drive 30 miles to grab dinner, especially since my apartment in St. Louis’ quiet, botanical Tower Grove neighborhood is mere blocks from restaurants that have been recognized everywhere from Bon Appetit and The New York Times to Food & Wine and Esquire.

But sometimes, when you want the best version of something, you have to be willing to travel for it. Noto Italian Restaurant owner and executive chef Wayne Sieve is keenly aware of this fact, which is why his if-you-build-it-they-will-come leap of faith in St. Peters, Missouri, has, against all odds, become such a massive success.