We're not exactly sure what qualifies a pizza to carry the designation "New York Style." Is it a chewy-yet-tender crust, a minimum of sauce, or a certain structural tendency that might be described as "fold-ability"? Gino's Pizza and Grill, a pizza operation in Agawam, proclaims it produces just such a big city pie, but whether or not their handiwork merits the designation, we can report the pizza at Gino's is definitely worth a side trip.

While visiting Gino's, we enjoyed a small (12-inch) Ranchero Pizza ($13.99), one of a number of "specialty pizzas" on the bill of fare. That listing also includes a Greek Pizza (beef gyro and feta cheese -- $13.99), a hamburger-and-jalapeno Mexican Pizza -- $13.99), and a Clams Casino ($14.99) pie.