Thanks to Bottega Bocconi and Le Bec Sucre, in recent years, the bedroom community of Middletown has popped up on European food seekers’ radar. The Italian deli and prepared foods mecca and fine French pasty and crusty bread haven have been a draw, but other than a smattering of spots clustered by First Beach, and a bunch of fast food options, a dining scene has never been emblematic of our neighbor to the north.

Though perhaps some residents have been pleased to keep a nighttime scene there at bay, since Pasta Vino opened in the Polo Plaza in August, it seems clear that the area was starved for a new restaurant. The place is hopping nightly and the service on both nights I visited was outstanding, friendly, informative and efficient. The small room has an open kitchen at the back with seats at the bar well positioned for spectating.