YOUR TRUSTY restaurant reviewer visited the newly opened eatery on Portsmouth’s Market Square on a chilly late afternoon and was seated (along with the Primary Dining Companion) on the very spot where a friendly Bank of America staffer once helped Our Gourmet wire money.

It’s not the first bank to be converted to a restaurant on Market Square. Next door, the now-defunct RiRa transformed the 1803 First National Building into an Irish pub, complete with a dining area in the vault. There was no vault in evidence at Toscana, but its high ceilings and the theater of an open kitchen added a dramatic flair to the evening.